Print Settings Guide
First Layer Calibration
Everything that follows depends on the first layer. A perfect first layer is flat, slightly squished into the bed, and sticks without warping. This guide covers how to get there - and how to diagnose what's going wrong when you don't.
Why the First Layer Is Everything
The first layer is the foundation every other layer builds on. If it's too high, the filament doesn't bond to the bed and peels up mid-print - usually at a corner, usually an hour in. If it's too low, the nozzle drags through partially deposited material, creating ridges that stack into visible artifacts on every subsequent layer.
Most print failures that look like mid-print problems - warping, layer shifts, failed overhangs - actually trace back to a first layer that was slightly wrong from the start. Getting this dialed in once means you spend far less time babysitting prints.
The Golden Rule
The first layer should be squished - slightly flattened, not round in cross-section. You want adhesion, not a perfectly round bead sitting on top of the plate.
What "Perfect" Looks Like
Lines are slightly wider than they are tall, no gaps between them, no ridges. From above the surface looks smooth and slightly glossy from the plate texture.
Two Separate Problems
Z-offset (nozzle height) and bed leveling (flatness across the plate) are different calibrations. Fix z-offset first, then level the bed - in that order.
How Often to Recalibrate
After any nozzle swap, after moving the printer, if you notice adhesion getting worse, or after a crash. Mesh bed leveling largely eliminates the need for manual re-leveling between prints.
Z-Offset Calibration
Z-offset is the distance between the nozzle tip and the bed surface at the home position. It's the single most impactful first layer setting and the first thing to get right.
Your printer homes to Z=0 using an endstop or probe, but that position is rarely the perfect printing height. The z-offset is the correction value that shifts the actual print height up or down from that home position. A negative z-offset moves the nozzle closer to the bed.
The paper test is the traditional method: with the nozzle at printing temperature, slide a sheet of standard printer paper between the nozzle and the bed. You want slight resistance - the paper should slide with friction but not tear. This represents roughly 0.1mm clearance, which is a good starting point for a 0.4mm nozzle with a 0.2mm first layer height.
Setting Z-Offset Step by Step
1. Heat everything first. Always calibrate z-offset at printing temperature - both the nozzle and the bed. Metal expands when hot. A z-offset set cold will be wrong when the printer warms up, causing the nozzle to be too close.
2. Use the live adjust method. Start a first layer test print (a single-layer square or the built-in z-offset wizard on Bambu/Prusa/Creality). Adjust z-offset in real time while watching the lines being deposited. This is faster and more accurate than the paper test alone.
3. Look at the lines, not the surface. Judge by the bead shape as it's being laid down. Too high = round bead, gaps between lines. Too low = nozzle scraping, ridges, clicking sounds from the extruder. Just right = slightly flattened bead, lines merge together.
4. Save in small increments. Most firmware accepts z-offset in 0.01-0.05mm steps. Make small adjustments (0.02-0.05mm at a time), not large ones. The difference between perfect and unusable is often only 0.1mm total.
5. Save to EEPROM / config. After finding the right value, make sure you save it permanently - not just for the current session. On Marlin: Store Settings. On Klipper: SAVE_CONFIG. On Bambu/Prusa: it saves automatically via the wizard.
Z-Offset Diagnosis
Too High (nozzle too far)
Round beads, gaps between lines, filament doesn't stick, first layer peels up. Fix: decrease z-offset (more negative).
Too Low (nozzle too close)
Nozzle scrapes bed, ridges form, extruder clicks or skips, filament builds up on nozzle. Fix: increase z-offset (less negative).
Just Right
Lines are flat and slightly wider than tall, no gaps between adjacent lines, surface looks smooth and consistent.
After Nozzle Swap
Always re-do z-offset after changing the nozzle. Different nozzles have slightly different lengths. Even same-brand replacements vary by ±0.1-0.2mm. [1]
Bed Leveling
Bed leveling ensures the nozzle is the same distance from the bed across the entire print surface, not just at the center. Most modern printers have automatic bed leveling (ABL) - but it still needs to be set up correctly.
Even a perfectly set z-offset at the center can result in poor first layers at the corners if the bed is tilted or uneven. A bed that's 0.3mm higher at the back-right corner than the front-left means your first layer will be scraped on one side and peeling on the other - regardless of how well you've set z-offset.
Manual Bed Leveling
Manual leveling uses the bed adjustment screws to physically tilt the bed until it's parallel to the gantry. The standard approach: home the printer, disable steppers, move the nozzle to each corner manually, and adjust the corner screw until a paper/feeler gauge gives consistent resistance at all four corners (and center). Repeat the circuit 2-3 times as adjusting one corner slightly affects the others.
Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL / Mesh Leveling)
ABL uses a probe (BLTouch, CR Touch, inductive sensor, or strain gauge) to measure the bed surface at a grid of points, then compensates for the measured height variation in real time during the print. This is the modern standard on most mid-range and high-end printers.
With mesh leveling, the printer effectively prints on the "virtual" bed surface it measured rather than a theoretical flat plane. This compensates for both overall tilt and local warps in the build plate. After running a mesh, prints will start right without needing to re-level unless the bed is physically disturbed.
Always mesh at printing temperature. Run your ABL routine with the bed at printing temperature, not cold. The bed plate expands when heated and the mesh measured cold will be inaccurate once it heats up.
First-layer z-offset is still needed with ABL. Mesh leveling compensates for bed shape variation, but not for the absolute nozzle-to-bed height. You still need to set z-offset correctly - ABL just ensures that offset is consistent across the whole bed surface.
Re-mesh after replacing the print surface. A new PEI sheet, glass plate, or any surface swap changes the height the probe measures. Re-run your bed mesh after any surface change.
Check mesh quality, not just existence. After running ABL, visualise the mesh if your firmware supports it (Klipper: BED_MESH_PLOT, Prusa: built-in display). A mesh with >0.3mm variation across the plate suggests a warped bed or a loose carriage - fix the physical problem before relying on software compensation.
First Layer Slicer Settings
Beyond z-offset, several slicer settings directly control how the first layer is printed. These are worth understanding and tuning - they're separate from z-offset and bed leveling.
First Layer Height
Thicker first layers (0.2-0.3mm) are more forgiving of minor z-offset errors and bed imperfections. A 0.3mm first layer with a 0.2mm z-offset error is barely noticeable; the same error on a 0.1mm first layer scrapes the bed. Avoid using very thin first layers unless you're printing an intricate base that requires it.
First Layer Speed
Slow first layers give the filament time to bond to the bed surface and allow minor height variations to be smoothed by the nozzle. Most profiles default to 20-40mm/s for the first layer, regardless of print speed. [1] Going faster risks poor adhesion; going under 20mm/s adds time without meaningful benefit.
First Layer Width
Increasing extrusion width on the first layer (e.g. 120-150% of nozzle diameter) creates wider, flatter beads with more surface contact. [1] This improves adhesion without changing z-offset. Many tuned profiles use 120% width for the first layer as a standard setting.
First Layer Temperature
Some profiles print the first layer at a slightly higher temperature than the rest of the print - for PLA, 215°C first layer vs. 210°C for subsequent layers. The extra heat improves flow and bed adhesion. Not universally necessary, but worth trying if you're struggling with adhesion on a correctly-leveled bed.
Fan Speed (First Layer)
Cooling fans should typically be off for the first layer. Cooling the filament too quickly prevents it from bonding properly to the bed surface. This is especially important for ABS/ASA (which crack from thermal stress) and PETG. Most slicers default to 0% fan for the first 1-3 layers.
Bed Temperature
The correct bed temperature varies significantly by material. PLA typically works at 50-65°C, PETG at 70-85°C, ABS/ASA at 90-110°C. [2] Undershooting causes adhesion failure; overshooting causes the part to stick too well and can damage PEI surfaces. See the materials guide for per-material targets.
First Layer Settings by Use Case
| Situation | Layer Height | Speed | Width | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| General / Default | 0.2-0.25mm | 25-35mm/s | 120% | Good starting point for all standard materials |
| Poor adhesion / large parts | 0.25-0.3mm | 20-25mm/s | 130-150% | More squish + wider lines = more contact area |
| Fine detail base / miniatures | 0.1-0.15mm | 15-20mm/s | 100% | Needs very accurate z-offset; little tolerance for error |
| ABS / ASA | 0.25-0.3mm | 20-25mm/s | 120% | Needs high bed temp (100-110°C), enclosure, no fan |
| PETG | 0.2-0.25mm | 25mm/s | 110% | Z-offset slightly higher than PLA - PETG sticks very aggressively to PEI at close range |
Bed Surfaces
The build surface determines what materials stick, how well they release when cooled, and how durable the surface is over time. The right surface makes first layers dramatically easier.
PEI (Textured / Smooth)
The current standard. PEI (polyetherimide) spring steel sheets grip well at printing temperature and release cleanly when cooled. Textured PEI adds a matte finish to the bottom of prints. Smooth PEI gives a glossy base. PLA, PETG, ABS, and ASA all work well. Lasts hundreds of hours before needing replacement. Keep clean with IPA.
Glass
Plain borosilicate glass gives a very flat, very smooth base. PLA sticks reasonably well when hot and releases when cooled. Requires glue stick or hairspray for PETG/ABS. Glass is excellent for prints needing a perfectly flat bottom surface. Doesn't flex, so parts may need to be popped off - don't force it.
Garolite / Fiberglass
Garolite (G10/FR4) is the go-to surface for nylon - nylon bonds strongly to it at temperature and releases when cooled, a combination hard to achieve on PEI. Not widely needed unless you print nylon frequently. Some users also use it for PP (polypropylene).
BuildTak / Generic Adhesive Sheets
Textured adhesive sheets that grip most materials well. Consumables - they wear out over tens to hundreds of hours. Good as a first step if your printer shipped with one. Most users eventually move to PEI spring steel for the better release-when-cooled behavior and longer lifespan.
Surface Maintenance Tips
Clean with IPA before every print. Finger oils from handling the plate transfer to the print surface and dramatically reduce adhesion. Wipe with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol before printing. This single habit fixes a large portion of "random" adhesion problems.
Don't touch the print surface with bare hands. Handle PEI sheets by the edges. The oil from your fingertips is enough to cause a first layer to fail. If you've touched the surface, wipe it with IPA before printing.
PETG on PEI: keep some distance. PETG sticks extremely well to PEI at close z-offset - too well. It can pull chunks of PEI off the surface when removed. Set z-offset slightly higher for PETG than you would for PLA, or use a thin layer of glue stick as a release agent.
Remove prints when cool. Wait for the bed to cool to near room temperature before removing prints, especially with flexible PEI sheets. The material contracts slightly on cooling, which breaks the bond - most prints pop off with a gentle flex of the sheet.
Adhesion Aids & Skirts / Brims
Sometimes the bed surface alone isn't enough - especially for large, flat prints or warping-prone materials like ABS. These techniques add insurance.
Physical Aids (Slicer Options)
Skirt
A skirt is one or more loops printed around (not attached to) the model. It primes the nozzle and lets you visually confirm z-offset before the model starts. It doesn't improve adhesion - for that you need a brim. Use a 2-3 loop skirt as a standard sanity check.
Brim
A brim is a flat ring attached to the outer edge of the model's first layer. It dramatically increases the contact area with the bed, which prevents corners from lifting. Use 5-10mm brim width for tall, narrow parts or any print with small base contact area. Remove by hand or with flush cutters after printing - it snaps off cleanly on most materials.
Raft
A raft is a thick multi-layer platform printed under the whole model. It isolates the model from bed imperfections and provides excellent adhesion, but adds significant print time, uses extra material, and leaves a rough bottom surface. Only use when everything else has failed - very warpy materials on difficult beds.
Surface Treatments
Glue Stick
A thin layer of PVA glue stick on the bed surface improves adhesion for almost all materials and also acts as a release agent for PETG on PEI (preventing the PETG from bonding too aggressively). Apply a thin, even coat while the bed is warm. Wash off with water when it builds up.
Hairspray
A light coat of extra-hold hairspray on glass gives good adhesion for PLA and ABS. Old-school technique, largely superseded by PEI, but still effective if that's what you have. Let it dry before printing. Clean off with water periodically.
Enclosure (for ABS/ASA)
ABS and ASA warp because the part cools unevenly - the top layers cool faster than the bottom, creating differential shrinkage that pulls corners up. An enclosure keeps the air around the print warm, slowing the cooling rate and eliminating most warping. Not a first layer setting but the primary fix for ABS warping.
First Layer Failure Patterns
Learn to read what you're seeing - each failure has a specific cause and fix.
Not Sticking at All
Filament is deposited but peels off immediately, strings up with the nozzle, or balls up on the nozzle tip. Primary cause: nozzle too far from bed. Fix: lower z-offset (more negative). Secondary causes: dirty bed surface (wipe with IPA), wrong bed temperature, or using a bed surface incompatible with the material.
Corners Lifting (Warping)
The model starts well but corners gradually lift during the print. Caused by the outer edges of the print cooling faster than the center, creating shrinkage stress. Fixes: add a brim (5-10mm), ensure no drafts near the printer, raise bed temperature slightly, use an enclosure for ABS/ASA, reduce cooling fan speed for the first few layers.
Elephant's Foot
The base of the model is wider than the rest - the first layer (or first few layers) squishes outward beyond the model footprint. Cause: z-offset too low (nozzle too close). Fix: increase z-offset slightly. Mild cases can also be compensated by reducing first layer extrusion width to 100% or using the "elephant foot compensation" setting in some slicers.
Uneven Adhesion (Sticks in Some Areas, Not Others)
The print sticks well on one side of the bed but peels up on the other. Cause: the bed is tilted - the nozzle is too close on one side and too far on the other. Fix: re-level the bed (manual or re-run ABL mesh). The z-offset may be correct on average but the tilt needs fixing.
Gaps Between First Layer Lines
The first layer lines don't merge - you can see gaps between them. Cause: nozzle slightly too far from the bed. The filament is deposited as a round bead rather than being flattened to fill the space between lines. Fix: lower z-offset slightly (0.02-0.05mm at a time).
Ridges / Raised Lines
The first layer has raised ridges along each line, or the nozzle is visibly pushing material sideways. Cause: nozzle too close - the material has nowhere to go but sideways. Extruder may also click or skip. Fix: increase z-offset. If ridges only appear in one area of the bed, the bed may also be locally high - re-run ABL mesh.
Nozzle Drags / Prints Ball of Filament
The nozzle is so close it physically drags through material or a ball of filament builds up on the tip and gets dragged around. Stop the print immediately - continuing risks scratching or gouging the print surface. Increase z-offset significantly (0.1-0.3mm). Check that your probe offset (if using ABL) matches the current nozzle.
Peels Up Mid-Print (Not First Layer)
The first layer seems to stick but the print lifts hours in, often at corners. The first layer was marginally OK - not strong enough to hold against cumulative warping stress. Fixes: increase bed temperature 5-10°C, use a brim, eliminate drafts, add an enclosure (especially for ABS/ASA), or use glue stick for extra adhesion.
Pre-Print First Layer Checklist
Run through this before troubleshooting anything complex - most first layer failures are one of these items.
1. Clean the bed surface with IPA. The most common cause of "random" adhesion failures. Wipe before every print.
2. Verify bed and nozzle are at printing temperature before calibrating or printing. Never set z-offset cold.
3. Run bed mesh (if using ABL). Especially after any surface change or if you haven't printed in a while.
4. Check z-offset. Run a single-layer test square if in doubt. Watch the lines being laid down - look for the squish.
5. Verify first layer speed is 25-35mm/s or slower. Not the full print speed.
6. Confirm cooling fan is off for layer 1. Check in your slicer's cooling settings.
7. Use a brim for tall or thin parts. 5mm minimum; 10mm for anything that looks like it could warp.
8. For ABS/ASA: close the enclosure, set bed to 100-110°C, and wait for it to fully heat-soak (5-10 min) before printing.
9. Dry filament if you hear popping or see bubbles. Wet filament can cause adhesion failures that look like z-offset problems. See the storage guide for drying instructions.
Recommended Gear
Tools that help you nail the first layer every time.
Build Surface
PEI spring steel sheet
A textured PEI sheet on a magnetic spring steel plate is the best general-purpose build surface. PLA, PETG, ABS, and ASA all stick well, and parts pop off when the plate cools. Worth upgrading if you're still on glass or stock surfaces.
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Adhesion
Glue stick
A thin layer of glue stick helps with adhesion on glass beds and acts as a release agent on PEI for PETG (prevents it from bonding too aggressively). Elmer's purple disappearing glue is the community standard.
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Calibration
Digital caliper
Essential for measuring first layer height, filament diameter, and verifying dimensional accuracy. A cheap digital caliper accurate to 0.01mm is one of the most useful tools on any 3D printing workbench.
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Bed Cleaning
Isopropyl alcohol spray
A quick IPA wipe before every print removes finger oils and residue that cause adhesion failures. 90%+ concentration works best. Keep a spray bottle and microfiber cloth next to the printer.
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References
- Prusa Knowledge Base — "First Layer Calibration (i3)." help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364
- Polymaker Wiki — Technical Data Sheets: mechanical, thermal, and processing specs for all Polymaker filaments. wiki.polymaker.com — Technical Data Sheets