Material Comparison

Nylon vs PETG

Both are "engineering" filaments, but one prints like a dream and the other is a hygroscopic nightmare. Here is when nylon earns the hassle.

Last updated: March 2026

For a full side-by-side comparison of Nylon, PETG, and 6 other materials, see our master comparison table:

Materials Comparison Table
When to use
Nylon

Nylon is the toughest common FDM filament. It has exceptional impact resistance, the best abrasion resistance of any standard filament, natural self-lubrication (low coefficient of friction), and excellent fatigue life under repeated loading.[1] Parts that need to survive thousands of cycles — gears, hinges, bushings, slides — are where nylon truly shines. It also handles higher temperatures than PETG, with a heat deflection around 180 °C for some PA6 grades.

The cost is not just financial. Nylon absorbs moisture from the air aggressively (it is hygroscopic to a degree that surprises most people). A spool left out overnight can print noticeably worse the next day. You need a filament dryer or sealed drybox — this is non-negotiable. Nylon also warps more than PETG, prefers an enclosure for larger parts, and prints at higher temperatures (250-270 °C).

Ideal for: gears, living hinges, bushings, slides, snap-fit enclosures under load, cable chain links, and any part where abrasion resistance or self-lubrication matters.

Community tip: If you are new to nylon, start with a nylon composite (PA-CF or PA-GF). Composites warp less, absorb less moisture, and are more dimensionally stable. You will need a hardened nozzle though — carbon fiber eats brass in hours.
Browse Nylon Deals Best Value Nylon Guide
When to use
PETG

PETG is "good enough" engineering for 90% of functional prints. It prints at 230-250 °C with no enclosure required, tolerates moderate moisture exposure without dramatic quality loss, and costs a fraction of nylon.[2] Its impact resistance and chemical resistance are solid, and it handles outdoor UV exposure well. For most hobbyist functional parts, PETG's strength is not the limiting factor — design and infill matter more.

Where PETG falls short compared to nylon: it has no self-lubricating properties (parts that slide against each other will wear), lower abrasion resistance, and less fatigue tolerance under cyclic loading. PETG gears will wear out much faster than nylon gears. And PETG's glass transition (~80 °C) is well below nylon, limiting high-temp applications.

Ideal for: outdoor enclosures, mounting brackets, tool holders, cable management, functional prototypes, and any engineering part that does not involve high wear, sliding contact, or extreme loads.

Community tip: Before jumping to nylon, ask yourself: "Does this part rub against something else, carry heavy repeated loads, or need to survive 100 °C+?" If the answer to all three is no, PETG is probably fine and will save you a lot of hassle.
Browse PETG Deals Best Value PETG Guide
The community verdict

Use PETG for everything functional until you hit a specific problem it cannot solve. Then switch to nylon for that specific application. The community is very clear on this: nylon is not a general-purpose upgrade from PETG. It is a specialized material for specialized jobs. The moisture management alone makes it impractical as a daily-driver filament.

The people printing nylon regularly tend to be making specific parts: custom gears, RC components, industrial prototypes, or replacement parts for machinery where the original was injection-molded nylon. If that sounds like you, nylon is worth learning. If you just want "something stronger than PLA" for functional prints, PETG is your answer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a filament dryer for nylon?
Effectively yes. Nylon is extremely hygroscopic — it absorbs moisture from the air within hours of being exposed. Wet nylon produces popping sounds, rough surfaces, poor layer adhesion, and stringing. A filament dryer or drybox with desiccant is not optional, it is required equipment. Many users print nylon directly from a drybox. PETG is also somewhat moisture-sensitive but far more forgiving — it can sit out for days without serious degradation.
Does nylon need an enclosure?
Strongly recommended. Nylon prints at 240-270 °C and warps aggressively on larger parts without an enclosure. The chamber temperature does not need to be extreme — even 35-40 °C ambient helps significantly. PETG does not need an enclosure and can actually print worse in one (too much heat increases stringing).
Is nylon stronger than PETG?
Yes, in most mechanical measures. Nylon has higher impact strength, better fatigue resistance, superior abrasion resistance, and natural self-lubrication. It also has a higher heat deflection temperature. The gap is significant for high-stress applications like gears, living hinges, and load-bearing parts. For general functional prints that do not see extreme stress, PETG is often strong enough.
What about nylon composites like PA-CF?
Carbon fiber and glass fiber nylon composites (PA-CF, PA-GF) are significantly stiffer and stronger than plain nylon, with reduced warping and moisture absorption. They require a hardened steel nozzle (carbon fiber destroys brass nozzles within hours). PA-CF is increasingly popular for drone frames and engineering prototypes. It is more expensive but bridges the gap between hobbyist FDM and professional parts.
Can PETG replace nylon for gears?
For low-load, low-speed gears, PETG can work. But nylon is genuinely better for gears because of its self-lubricating properties (low coefficient of friction), superior abrasion resistance, and better fatigue life under repeated loading. If your gears are moving under load regularly, nylon will last significantly longer. For a decorative gear or one that turns occasionally, PETG is fine.
Which is more affordable, nylon or PETG?
PETG is considerably more affordable. Standard PETG runs $10-14/kg, while nylon typically costs $25-40/kg. Nylon composites (PA-CF) can exceed $50/kg. Factor in the cost of a filament dryer and potentially an enclosure, and the total cost of entry for nylon is significantly higher than PETG.

References

  1. Prusa Knowledge Base — Nylon (PA). https://help.prusa3d.com/article/nylon_2058
  2. Prusa Knowledge Base — PETG. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059
  3. Polymaker — PA6-CF Technical Data Sheet. polymaker.com