Material Comparison

ABS vs Polycarbonate

Both need enclosures. Both warp. But PC is in a different league for strength and heat resistance. Here is when the upgrade is worth it.

Last updated: March 2026

For a full side-by-side comparison of ABS, PC, and 6 other materials, see our master comparison table:

Materials Comparison Table
When to use
ABS

ABS is the workhorse engineering plastic. It handles temperatures up to about 100 °C[1], takes impact well without shattering, and can be vapor-smoothed with acetone for a glossy finish. It is more affordable than PC, easier to source, and more forgiving to print. If your part needs to survive heat and mechanical stress but does not need to withstand extreme loads or temperatures above 100 °C, ABS is the practical choice.

Ideal for: automotive interior parts, electronics enclosures, jigs and fixtures, functional prototypes, and anything that needs acetone smoothing for a clean surface finish.

Community tip: ABS emits styrene fumes when printing. Always use an enclosure with a carbon filter, or vent to outside. Do not print ABS in a bedroom or poorly ventilated room.
Browse ABS Deals ABS Filament Guide
When to use
Polycarbonate

PC is what you reach for when ABS is not strong enough. It has a glass transition temperature around 145 °C[2], roughly 50% higher impact strength than ABS, and is nearly transparent in its natural form. The trade-off is significant: PC prints at 260-310 °C, requires an all-metal hotend, needs a fully enclosed (ideally heated) build chamber, and warps aggressively. It is also hygroscopic, so you need to dry it thoroughly before printing.

Ideal for: high-temperature applications near engines or heat sources, load-bearing structural parts, transparent covers and lenses, electrical insulation components, and parts that must pass impact or heat testing.

Community tip: If pure PC is too demanding, try a PC/ABS blend. Polymaker PC-ABS prints at 250-270 °C with less warping and still gives you substantially better heat resistance and toughness than straight ABS. It is the practical middle ground for most hobbyists.
Browse PC Deals PC Filament Guide
The community verdict

Use ABS unless you have a specific reason to need PC. ABS handles 90% of engineering use cases in the hobbyist world. PC is reserved for when you genuinely need heat resistance above 100 °C or impact strength that ABS cannot provide. Most people who think they need PC actually need ABS or PETG.

If you are already printing ABS successfully and find yourself hitting its temperature or strength limits, PC is the natural next step. Just be prepared for a steeper learning curve and more demanding printer requirements. And seriously consider PC/ABS blends before jumping straight to pure polycarbonate - they solve the problem for most people with half the hassle.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I print polycarbonate on a stock Ender 3?
Not realistically. PC requires nozzle temperatures of 260-310 °C (needs an all-metal hotend), bed temperatures of 100-130 °C (most Ender 3 beds max out around 100 °C), and a fully enclosed build chamber to prevent warping and layer splitting. You would need an all-metal hotend upgrade, an enclosure, and ideally a heated chamber. At that point you are looking at significant modifications.
Is PC/ABS blend worth trying?
Yes. PC/ABS blends print at lower temperatures than pure PC (around 250-270 °C), warp less, and still offer significantly better impact resistance and heat tolerance than straight ABS. They are a genuine middle ground if you need more than ABS can offer but do not want to deal with full PC printing requirements.
Do both ABS and PC need an enclosure?
ABS technically can print without one on small parts, but you will get warping and layer separation on anything substantial. PC absolutely requires an enclosure - no exceptions. The higher print temperatures mean the thermal gradient between the nozzle and ambient air causes severe warping and delamination without chamber heating. For both materials, an enclosure is strongly recommended.
Which is more UV resistant, ABS or PC?
Neither is great for UV exposure without treatment. ABS yellows and becomes brittle with prolonged UV exposure. PC is naturally more UV resistant but will also yellow over time. For outdoor applications, ASA is a better choice than either. If you must use ABS or PC outdoors, UV-resistant paint or coating is recommended.
What nozzle do I need for polycarbonate?
A standard brass nozzle works fine for unfilled PC. You need an all-metal hotend that can sustain 300 °C+ without degrading. If you are printing carbon fiber PC (PC-CF), you need a hardened steel or ruby-tipped nozzle to handle the abrasive fibers. A 0.6mm nozzle is often recommended for PC to improve flow at the higher viscosity.

References

  1. Prusa Knowledge Base - ABS. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/abs_2065
  2. Prusa Knowledge Base - Polycarbonate. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/polycarbonate-pc_2064
  3. Polymaker PC-ABS Technical Data Sheet. https://polymaker.com/products/polymax-pc-abs