Community-vetted nylon picks for functional parts, backed by real-time price tracking across 5,000+ products. Updated daily.
Last updated: May 2026
Nylon is the filament you reach for when parts need to survive real abuse. Impact resistance that makes PETG look fragile, flexibility that prevents brittle snapping, chemical resistance, and self-lubricating properties that make it ideal for gears and bearings. The tradeoff: nylon is harder to print than anything in the PLA/PETG/ABS family, and it absolutely requires a drybox.
PA12 is the beginner-friendly nylon. It warps less than PA6, prints at lower temps, and is available from budget brands at reasonable prices. If you've never printed nylon before, start here. PA6 offers higher strength and heat resistance but is significantly more demanding to print.
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Nylon at a glance
Print temperature
PA12: 250-270°C. PA6: 270-290°C. PA-CF: 280-300°C. All higher than ABS (240-260°C). Older brass-block hotends top out below this, so make sure your printer can hit and hold 280°C+.
Bed temperature
PA12: 70-90°C. PA6: 90-110°C. Glue stick or PVA-based adhesive on glass is the standard pattern; bare PEI is hit-or-miss with nylon. Magigoo PA / Vision Miner Nano Polymer are the named adhesives.
Glass transition / HDT
PA12 HDT ~140°C, PA6 HDT ~190°C, PA-CF HDT 140-200°C depending on base. All well above ABS (95°C) and PETG (75°C). Real engineering-grade heat resistance below polycarbonate territory.
Print speed
30-60mm/s. Slower than PETG. Push past 80mm/s and you get layer separation plus stringing. PA-CF tolerates the lower end of the range; standard nylons handle the upper.
Drying (mandatory)
75-85°C for 8-12 hours before every print. Re-dry weekly if not in a sealed drybox. Nylon absorbs measurable moisture in under an hour. See the storage guide for drybox setups.
Nozzle hardness
Brass is fine for unfilled PA. PA-CF / PA-GF / PA6-CF require hardened steel, tungsten carbide, or ruby, because chopped fibres destroy brass within a single spool. 0.6mm hardened nozzles handle filled nylon best.
Enclosure requirement
PA12 prefers an enclosure but works open-frame on big-bed printers. PA6 and PA-CF require enclosure. ASA-grade chamber heat (40°C+ ambient) is the target.
Acetone smoothing
No, acetone has no effect on nylon. For surface finish, sanding plus a polyurethane coat is the common approach. Annealing in salt water at 95°C improves crystallinity (and strength) but doesn't smooth.
PA6 vs PA12 vs PA-CF: which nylon is right for you?
Picking the wrong nylon variant is the most common mistake. The table below covers the practical differences: print difficulty, mechanical properties, and what each variant is actually good for.
PA12: start here
The beginner-friendly nylon. Prints at 250-270°C with 70-90°C bed, warps less than PA6, works on most enclosed printers without much tuning. Tensile strength ~50MPa, HDT ~140°C, excellent flex and impact resistance. Use for: gears, living hinges, drone parts that don't need extreme stiffness, brackets that need to absorb impact rather than just hold load. Named picks: Elegoo PA12 (~$24), Fiberlogy PA12 (~$32), Polymaker PolyMide CoPA (~$35).
PA6: when you actually need higher heat
Stronger and more heat-resistant than PA12 (HDT ~190°C, tensile ~70MPa) but harder to print. Warps aggressively, needs 100°C+ bed, demands an enclosure with 40°C+ ambient. The reward is real engineering performance: PA6 brackets near a heated extruder, automotive parts under hood heat. The catch: most projects called "needs PA6" are actually fine with PA12. Try PA12 first.
PA-CF / PA6-CF / PA12-CF: when stiffness matters more than flex
Carbon-fibre-filled nylon. 30-40% stiffer than base nylon, much higher HDT, dimensionally stable. Loses some of base nylon's impact-flex behavior, since fibres make it stiffer but slightly more brittle. Use for: drone arms, antenna mounts, robotic structural parts, jigs that need to hold tight tolerances at temperature. Wears brass nozzles in a single spool, so hardened steel is mandatory. Polymaker PolyMide PA6-CF (~$45) and Bambu PAHT-CF (~$55) are the named picks.
PA-GF / PA6-GF: same stiffness boost at lower cost
Glass-fibre-filled nylon. Slightly less stiff than PA-CF but more affordable and slightly tougher (less brittle in fibre direction). Use for: impact-tolerant fixtures, brackets that need stiffness without going to PA-CF prices. Same hardened-nozzle requirement. Surface finish is matte and visibly textured, with fibres showing through. SUNLU PA6-GF and Polymaker PolyMide PA6-GF cover the budget end.
PA11: bio-based, easier than PA6
A bio-sourced nylon that prints somewhere between PA12 and PA6 in difficulty, with mechanical properties closer to PA6. Premium option (Prusament PA11-CF and Polymaker PolyMide PA11). Pick this when PA12 isn't quite tough enough but you don't want the warping headache of PA6. Also better for flexible parts that need higher-temperature performance than TPU.
Editor's picks for nylon, ranked
Six picks for engineering-grade prints. Live prices below each ranking come from the same retailer feeds the rest of the site uses, refreshed daily.
1. Best starting point: Polymaker PolyMide CoPA (~$35/kg)
A copolyamide blend specifically engineered to combine PA6 and PA12 properties with reduced warping. The most-recommended "first nylon" on r/3Dprinting and r/FixMyPrint. Prints with the Bambu Generic PA profile out of the box; warps far less than straight PA6. If you've tried nylon before and given up due to warping, start here.
2. Best budget: Elegoo PA12 (~$24/kg)
Elegoo's PA12 has been gaining ground as the reliable budget entry point: vacuum-sealed with desiccant, ships from regional warehouses, prints with stock PA12 profiles. Not as forgiving as PolyMide CoPA, but for half the price it's a fair starting point if you have a working drybox setup. Elegoo's full lineup.
3. Best PA6-CF: Polymaker PolyMide PA6-CF (~$45/kg)
Widely considered the gold standard for hobbyist PA-CF. 30%+ stiffer than unfilled PA6, dimensionally stable, prints at 280°C with the right hotend setup. Use a hardened steel nozzle (brass dies in one spool) and ideally a 0.6mm tip for flow. Prints jigs, fixtures, and structural drone parts at near-injection-mould quality.
4. Best Bambu-tuned: Bambu PAHT-CF (~$55/kg)
Bambu's flagship engineering filament. Tuned specifically for X1C / P1S / H2D with their own slicer profile, so it works first try with a hardened nozzle hotend. Higher HDT than standard PA-CF, more dimensionally stable. Premium pricing reflects Bambu-tuning rather than chemistry advantage; PolyMide PA6-CF performs similarly for less.
5. Best European premium: Fiberlogy PA12 / Prusament PA11 (~$32-50/kg)
Fiberlogy PA12 is the European budget-premium pick (via 3DJake), tighter tolerance than Elegoo and a documented chemistry. Prusament PA11 (and PA11-CF) sit at the top: bio-based, batch-traceable, and Prusa publishes spool-by-spool QC reports. Pick these when consistency batch-to-batch matters.
6. Best for stiffness on a budget: SUNLU PA6-GF (~$30/kg)
Glass-fibre-filled nylon at a budget-CF price point. ~80% of PA-CF's stiffness gain at roughly two-thirds the price. Surface finish is visibly matte and textured (fibres show), and brass nozzles still die, so use hardened steel only. Use this when you need PA-CF stiffness for impact-tolerant fixtures rather than aerospace-grade structural parts. More SUNLU options.
01 / Budget PA
PA12 for your first nylon prints
~$20-28/kg
PA12 is where most people start with nylon, and Elegoo's PA12 has earned a solid reputation in the community for being forgiving while still delivering the impact resistance and flexibility nylon is known for. Print at 250-270°C with a 70-90°C bed (an enclosure helps but isn't strictly required for PA12), and the spool must be dry: 8-12 hours at 75-85°C before printing, then fed from a sealed drybox.
The mechanical advantages over PETG and ABS are real. PA12 absorbs impact in ways PETG can't (it bends rather than cracks) and beats ABS on flex without the warping headache. Living hinges, gears, and bushings all work better in PA12 than any non-nylon filament. The downsides: noticeably more stringy than ABS or PETG out of the box (tune retraction up), surface finish is matte rather than glossy, and the moisture management is constant work.
SUNLU PA12 sits in the same tier: budget price, similar properties, slightly less consistent quality batch-to-batch. For European customers, Fiberlogy PA12 via 3DJake is the equivalent pick at a small premium with tighter QC.
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Non-negotiable: Dry your nylon before printing. 8-12 hours at 75-85C in a filament dryer, then print from a sealed drybox. Wet nylon sounds like Rice Krispies coming out of the nozzle and the prints will be garbage. This is the single most important thing about printing nylon.
Polymaker's PolyMide series is the community's top recommendation for premium nylon. PolyMide CoPA (copolyamide) is specifically designed for easier printability while retaining nylon's mechanical advantages. It's the variant that converts ex-PA6 users away from warping headaches. PolyMide PA6 itself is also strong, with documented chemistry and consistent batch quality. Fiberlogy PA12 is the European budget-premium go-to via 3DJake.
Premium nylon's edge over budget brands shows up in three places: diameter consistency (±0.02mm vs ±0.05mm), moisture content out of the bag (premium brands ship measurably drier with better seals), and crystallisation behavior (more consistent annealing response). For functional engineering parts that get inspected closely, those matter; for hobbyist gears and brackets, budget nylon plus a dryer is usually enough.
Prusament PA11 sits in the same tier with bio-based chemistry and batch-traceable QC, a good pick when you want documented spool-by-spool reports rather than a brand reputation. Bambu's own Generic PA filament also fits here for X1C / P1S users; tuned profile in Bambu Studio.
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Worth knowing: Polymaker's PolyMide CoPA is specifically engineered as a copolyamide that combines the best properties of PA6 and PA12 with significantly reduced warping. If you've tried nylon before and given up due to warping, this is the one to try.
PA-CF takes nylon's already-impressive mechanical properties and adds chopped carbon fibre for dramatically increased stiffness and heat deflection temperature. The result is parts that rival injection-moulded engineering plastics: drone arms, robotic structural components, jigs that hold tight tolerances at temperature, antenna mounts. PA-CF is the go-to for parts that need to be stiff without being brittle.
The catch: PA-CF is extremely abrasive. A brass nozzle wears visibly within the first prints and is unusable inside a single spool. Hardened steel ($10-20), tungsten carbide ($40-80), or ruby-tipped ($90+) nozzles all work. Print speeds run slower than standard nylon (40-60mm/s) and a 0.6mm nozzle helps both with flow reliability and reducing clogs from agglomerated fibres.
Polymaker PolyMide PA6-CF is the most-named pick for hobbyist PA-CF: well-tuned chemistry, consistent batches, prints at 280°C with the right hotend. Bambu PAHT-CF is the Bambu-tuned premium option ($55+/kg) that prints first-try on X1C / P1S / H2D. Prusament PA11-CF rounds out the European premium tier. For impact-tolerant parts where stiffness still matters, PA-GF (glass fibre) is the budget alternative: same hardened-nozzle requirement, ~80% of the stiffness gain at lower cost.
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Hardware warning: PA-CF will destroy a brass nozzle within a single spool. Use hardened steel, tungsten carbide, or ruby-tipped nozzles only. This is not optional - you'll see visible nozzle wear within the first few prints on brass.
SpoolHound aggregates filament prices from multiple retailers daily. We don't test filament or make subjective quality claims. We track what things cost and surface what the community says about them.
Prices shown are pulled directly from retailer feeds and updated every 24 hours. Market comparison percentages show how each product compares to the median price for its material type. This helps you spot genuinely good deals versus inflated "sale" pricing.
Picking nylon by what you're actually printing
The right nylon depends on what failure mode you're trying to avoid. Impact, heat, stiffness, and ease-of-printing are the four trade-offs that move you between PA12, PA6, PA-CF, and PA-GF.
Functional gears, bearings, and bushings
Pick PA12, either Polymaker PolyMide CoPA or Fiberlogy PA12. Nylon's self-lubricating behavior makes it the only commodity filament that handles continuous mechanical wear. Print at 100% infill for gears, 5+ perimeters for bushings. Anneal in 95°C salt water for 30-60 minutes to boost strength and dimensional stability further. Avoid PA-CF here, because fibres make gears noisier and more brittle.
Living hinges and snap-fit assemblies
Pick PA12. This is where nylon dominates. PETG cracks after 50-100 cycles; ABS cracks faster; PA12 living hinges survive thousands of cycles. Print hinges horizontally so layer lines run along the bend axis. Use 3-4 perimeters and 0% infill at the hinge zone. Bambu / Prusa LiveZ-style snap-fits work beautifully in PA12 where they'd snap immediately in PLA.
Drone and RC structural parts
Pick PA-CF or PA6-CF, either Polymaker PolyMide PA6-CF or Bambu PAHT-CF. Drone arms see vibration, crash impact, and outdoor UV (less of an issue inside the airframe). PA-CF stiffness keeps the frame from flexing under prop load; nylon's impact toughness survives crashes that destroy ABS or PETG-CF parts. Hardened steel nozzle, 0.6mm tip, and chamber at 40°C+ ambient.
Automotive and high-temperature engineering parts
Pick PA6 or PA6-CF when you need 100°C+ continuous heat tolerance: engine-bay brackets, exhaust-adjacent fixtures, heated extruder mounts. PA12 softens around 80-100°C; PA6 holds shape past 150°C continuous. Print PA6 at 280°C with chamber heated to 50°C+. For extreme heat (>150°C continuous), step up to Polymaker PC-Max or PEEK, both significantly more demanding to print.
Printer-specific nylon tips
Nylon needs more from the printer than ABS: higher temperatures, longer dry-time tolerance, hardened-nozzle compatibility for filled variants. Below are the realistic ranges for the common platforms.
Bambu Lab X1C / P1S / H2D
The right tool for serious nylon work. Hotend hits 300°C, hardened nozzles are a $25 swap, AMS handles 1kg spools (use external rack with desiccant for larger). For PA-CF / PA6-CF, install the hardened steel nozzle assembly from Bambu before loading. PAHT-CF profile in Bambu Studio is tuned for the X1C, so use it. PolyMide CoPA also prints first-try with the Generic PA profile. The Bambu filament guide covers the AMS sensor sensitivity to hygroscopic materials.
Bambu Lab A1 / A1 Mini
Open-frame, no enclosure, no hardened nozzle option from Bambu. PA12 is borderline possible with a drybox and patient first-layer tuning, but warping is hard to control. PA6 won't work at all open-frame. PA-CF / PA-GF can't run because the brass nozzle dies. For real nylon work on Bambu, you need an X1C / P1S / H2D. A1 owners should stick to PETG or PETG-CF for tough functional parts.
Prusa MK4S / MK3S+
Nylon-friendly platform. MK4S hotend handles 290°C+ for PA6 and PA-CF. With Prusa's enclosure, PA6 works; without it, stick to PA12 or PolyMide CoPA. Prusament PA11 / PA11-CF prints first-try with bundled PrusaSlicer profiles. Hardened nozzle is a $20 swap from Prusa. The MK4S input shaping handles the lower nylon print speeds better than older Prusa models.
Voron, Ratrig, and DIY enclosed printers
The native habitat for high-temp nylon. Chamber holds 40-60°C ambient indefinitely, hotend can be specced to 350°C+ with a Mosquito or Rapido. PA6 and PA-CF print without warping concerns. Aux part-cooling stays low (0-30%), because high cooling causes layer separation in a hot chamber. Many Voron build kits ship with PolyMide CoPA or PA-CF for the printed structural parts themselves; the printer is designed around printing nylon.
Common nylon pitfalls (and what actually fixes them)
Every issue below comes up weekly on r/3Dprinting and r/FixMyPrint. The fixes below are the ones that actually work.
Popping at the nozzle, bubbly surface, weak layers
Wet filament. Nylon is the most hygroscopic common filament, so even a few hours of room-air exposure causes visible defects. Fix: dry the spool at 75-85°C for 8-12 hours, then print from a sealed drybox with the spool feeding through a port. If you don't have a dryer, an oven at the lowest setting (often ~80°C) with the door cracked works in a pinch. Don't try to print nylon stored open longer than a couple of hours; re-dry first.
Corners lifting badly even with PA12
Three causes: (1) bed temperature too low (PA12 wants 80-90°C, PA6 wants 100°C+); (2) wrong adhesive (bare PEI is hit-or-miss, so use Magigoo PA, glue stick, or Vision Miner Nano Polymer on glass); (3) chamber too cool (even PA12 benefits from 35°C+ ambient). A brim helps the corners specifically. If you're warping with budget PA12 even at correct temps, switch to Polymaker PolyMide CoPA, which warps significantly less.
Brass nozzle worn out in one spool
You ran PA-CF, PA-GF, or PA6-CF through it. The chopped fibres are harder than brass and grind the orifice into a wider, irregular shape: flow drops, dimensions go off, surface quality collapses. Fix: hardened steel ($10-20), tungsten carbide ($40-80), or ruby ($90+). Once a nozzle is ground out, it's done. Replace it, don't try to compensate in slicer profiles.
Stringing between perimeters
Three causes: (1) wet filament (most likely, so re-dry); (2) retraction too low (bump direct-drive retraction to 1-2mm, Bowden to 4-6mm); (3) coasting / wipe disabled (enable both at 0.4mm). Higher print temperatures also reduce stringing in nylon, counter-intuitive versus PETG. Try 5°C hotter before lowering retraction further. Persistent stringing after all of the above is almost always moisture you didn't fully bake out.
When nylon isn't the right answer
Nylon is the right pick for impact-tough functional parts and engineering jobs that need stiffness or heat resistance. Outside that envelope, four other materials handle the job better, usually with much less hassle.
For hobbyist functional parts that don't need nylon's specific properties, PETG is the right answer. Half the price, no drybox required, prints first-try on any printer. PETG-CF gets close to PA-CF stiffness for less money and without the brass-nozzle problem (fibres still wear, but slower than PA-CF). Reach for nylon only when PETG actually fails the job.
PA6's HDT (~190°C) covers most "needs higher heat" cases. When that's not enough, for engine-bay continuous-use parts, oven adjacent fixtures, or sterilisation autoclave parts, polycarbonate (Tg ~145°C, HDT ~135°C) or PEEK (HDT ~250°C) are the next steps up. PEEK costs 20-50× nylon and needs hotend at 400°C+; PC is far more accessible at $30-50/kg.
If you need true flex (compress, stretch, return), nylon is the wrong tool, since even PA12 is stiff for its weight. TPU prints similarly to PETG (95A) and offers genuine elastomer behavior. For flexible impact damping that also needs nylon-grade abrasion resistance, PA + TPU multi-material parts are the standard pattern.
Need chemical resistance → ASA, PP, or PA itself
Nylon resists hydrocarbons and most solvents; ASA resists weak acids and bases; polypropylene (PP) handles strong acids and bases. For most chemical-resistance jobs, PA12 covers the requirement with the bonus of impact toughness. PP is the next tier for laboratory-grade chemical exposure but is hard to print (warps badly, low surface energy).
If you can't keep nylon dry, whether from no dryer, a humid climate, or infrequent printing, you'll never get good results from any nylon. PETG and ABS tolerate moisture much better. For tough functional parts without the moisture-management overhead, PETG-CF (carbon-fibre filled PETG) gets surprisingly close to PA12's impact toughness with none of the hygroscopic headaches.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where can I find the cheapest nylon filament right now?
This page tracks nylon (PA) across every retailer we follow and sorts it live by real cost per kg, so the cheapest in-stock option is always at the top. Prices refresh daily and are region-aware, so switch your region in the nav for local pricing. Because we rank by value per kg, a larger spool or a current sale often works out cheaper than a standard roll.
Do I need a drybox to print nylon?
Yes, and it's non-negotiable. Nylon is the most hygroscopic of any common filament; even an hour of room-air exposure measurably degrades print quality. Dry at 75-85°C for 8-12 hours before printing, then feed from a sealed drybox during the print. Skip the drybox and you'll hear popping at the nozzle, see surface bubbles, and get layer adhesion so weak the print snaps under gentle force. See the storage guide for setups.
What's the difference between PA6, PA12, and PA-CF?
PA6 is strongest and most heat-resistant (HDT ~190°C) but warps aggressively and needs 100°C+ bed plus an enclosure. PA12 is the beginner-friendly nylon: lower temps (250-270°C), warps less, prints on most enclosed printers, slightly lower strength but still well above ABS. PA-CF (PA6-CF or PA12-CF) is nylon with chopped carbon fibre. It's 30-40% stiffer with higher HDT, but abrasive enough to destroy brass nozzles in a single spool. Use hardened steel nozzles only.
How much does nylon filament cost?
Budget PA12 runs $20-28/kg from Elegoo and SUNLU. Premium nylon from Polymaker (PolyMide CoPA) or Fiberlogy costs $28-40/kg. PA-CF and PA6-CF are the most expensive at $35-55/kg. Bambu PAHT-CF and Prusament PA11-CF sit at the top of the range ($55-75/kg). Check the live nylon prices for the current lowest landed cost in your region.
Is PA12 good enough or do I need PA6?
PA12 is good enough for most hobbyist applications: gears, living hinges, impact-resistant brackets, drone parts that don't need extreme stiffness. It's significantly easier to print than PA6, warps less, and still offers excellent flexibility. PA6 only earns its hassle if you specifically need 100°C+ heat deflection or maximum tensile strength. Start with PA12. Most people who try PA6 wish they'd stayed with PA12.
Which brand makes the best nylon filament?
Polymaker's PolyMide series, particularly PolyMide CoPA and PolyMide PA6-CF, is the most recommended nylon among hobbyists for printability and consistency. Fiberlogy PA12 is the European go-to via 3DJake. For budget nylon, Elegoo's PA12 has been gaining traction as a reliable entry point. For carbon-fibre nylon, Polymaker PolyMide PA6-CF and Bambu PAHT-CF are the two most-named picks; Prusament PA11-CF is the European premium option.
Why is my nylon print full of bubbles and rough on top?
Wet filament. Nylon absorbs moisture from the air faster than PETG, ABS, or PLA. Even a few hours open will cause visible surface defects, popping at the nozzle, and stringing. The fix is to dry the spool at 75-85°C for 8-12 hours, then print from a sealed drybox with the spool fed through a port. Don't try to print nylon that's been sitting open for more than an hour or two, because it'll fail.
Do I need a hardened steel nozzle for PA-CF?
Yes, and it's non-negotiable for PA-CF, PA-GF, and any glass- or carbon-filled material. The chopped fibres are harder than brass and will visibly wear a brass nozzle within the first few prints: flow rate drops, extrusion accuracy degrades, and within one spool the nozzle is unusable. Hardened steel ($10-20), tungsten carbide ($40-80), or ruby-tipped ($90+) all work. For volume use, swap to a 0.6mm hardened nozzle to reduce clogs and improve flow.
Can I print nylon on a Bambu A1 or Ender 3?
Limited. PA12 is borderline possible on a Bambu A1 with a drybox and patient first-layer tuning, but warping is hard to avoid without an enclosure. PA6 needs an enclosure full stop, so don't try it open-frame. The Bambu A1 also lacks a hardened nozzle option, so PA-CF/PA-GF aren't viable. For real nylon work, you want X1C / P1S / H2D, Prusa MK4S with enclosure, or a Voron.
Is nylon stronger than PETG or ABS?
On impact and flex, yes, significantly. PA12 absorbs impact in ways that crack PETG and shatter ABS. Tensile strength is similar to PETG when nylon is dry; nylon's advantage is that it stays tough rather than going brittle under stress. PA-CF and PA6 are both meaningfully stiffer than ABS-GF or PETG-CF. For pure stiffness without flex, ABS-GF or PETG-CF are the lower-cost choice; for impact-tough functional parts, nylon wins.
What's the difference between PA-CF and PA-GF?
PA-CF (carbon fibre) is stiffer and lighter than PA-GF (glass fibre); PA-GF is more affordable and slightly tougher (less brittle in fibre direction). For most engineering parts where stiffness-to-weight matters (drone frames, jigs, antenna mounts), PA-CF wins. For impact-tolerant fixtures and brackets where cost matters, PA-GF is the practical pick. Both need hardened nozzles. Both lose surface quality compared to standard PA, because fibre fill creates a visible matte texture.