Cheapest ASA Filament Right Now

SpoolHound aggregates filament prices from multiple retailers daily. We don't test filament or make subjective quality claims. We track what things cost and surface what the community says about them.

Prices shown are pulled directly from retailer feeds and updated every 24 hours. Market comparison percentages show how each product compares to the median price for its material type. This helps you spot genuinely good deals versus inflated "sale" pricing.

Pick Polymaker PolyLite ASA or FormFutura ApolloX. Print at 255°C with 4+ perimeters, 40%+ infill, and design in a silicone gasket groove at any seam. Avoid screw-thread inserts that leave thin walls; heat-set brass inserts in chunky bosses are the standard pattern. For weather sealing on cable entries, a printed labyrinth plus dab of silicone outperforms any glue-on grommet.

Pick Elegoo or SUNLU budget ASA. These parts get replaced every few years anyway as styles change, and budget ASA will outlast that cycle easily. Black or grey hides UV-induced color shift better than white or yellow. Print at 60mm/s with a brim, since partial-shade exposure means less thermal cycling stress than direct sun parts.

Pick ASA-CF (carbon-fibre filled) or PolyLite ASA. Drones see UV every flight, plus crash impacts and high-speed airflow. Carbon-fibre fill stiffens body panels and antenna mounts without weight; standard ASA is fine for shells and canopies. Use a hardened steel nozzle for ASA-CF to avoid wearing out brass within a few hundred hours.

Pick Polymaker, Extrudr, or Prusament ASA. Car parts see brutal heat (interiors hit 70-80°C in summer) plus daily UV through windshields and roof glass. ASA's 100°C+ Tg handles cabin heat where PLA softens. For exterior trim or vent surrounds, premium brands hold color better than budget ASA in the 5-10 year timeframe these parts typically need to last.

The natural fit. Door closed, top glass on, Generic ASA profile, AMS loaded with a 1kg ASA spool: works first try for most users. Aux fan stays at 0% on the Bambu ASA profile; leave it. Built-in carbon filtration handles fume management for occasional prints. The Bambu filament guide covers AMS-compatible spool sizes. Only 1kg fits the AMS, and 3kg+ spools need an external rack.

Open-frame printers. Don't run ASA on these; Bambu's print profiles don't include it for that reason. The first layer might lay down fine but tall parts will warp or layer-split. If you need outdoor durability on an A1, your options are limited: PETG-HF survives a couple of years outdoors before yellowing badly, but for permanent installations you need an enclosed printer for ASA. There's no good open-frame outdoor material.

Open-frame stock, but with Prusa's official enclosure ASA prints reliably. Use Prusament ASA with the bundled PrusaSlicer profile for best first-try results. The MK4S in particular handles ASA at higher speeds than older Prusa printers thanks to its tuned input shaping; 80-100mm/s is realistic for non-stress-bearing parts.

Voron printer parts themselves are commonly printed in ASA, since the printer's chamber stays warm enough during operation to risk softening PLA or PETG mounts on long jobs. Run chamber at 40-50°C ambient. PolyLite ASA, Bambu Generic ASA, and Prusament ASA all work fine with stock Voron print profiles. Keep the aux part-cooling fan low (10-30%); high cooling causes layer splitting in a hot chamber.

Same fix as ABS, in the same priority order: (1) close the enclosure and let it heat-soak for 15 minutes; (2) bed at 105-110°C; (3) part fan at 0% for the first 5 layers. A brim helps the corners. ASA actually warps slightly less than ABS in identical setups; if you're warping with ASA, you'd be warping worse with ABS. The difference is small enough that bed/enclosure/fan tuning matters more than material choice.

Enclosure ambient too cool, or part fan too aggressive. ASA layer adhesion drops sharply when the previous layer cools below ~60°C before the next layer lands. Fix: chamber ambient at 35-45°C (close the top, kill drafts), part fan at 0-30% maximum. If you're already there, raise hotend temp 5°C, since under-extrusion at low temps looks identical to layer separation.

Either you bought low-stabiliser budget ASA for a high-UV environment, or you're actually looking at ABS that was sold as ASA. Check the spool. If it came from a no-name AliExpress listing, the chemistry might not be what the label says. Premium ASA from Polymaker, FormFutura, Prusa, or Extrudr won't yellow noticeably in the first year of direct sun. If a name-brand ASA yellows fast, contact the supplier, because UV stability is a chemistry guarantee.

ASA emits styrene plus acrylate-related VOCs during printing, with a slightly different smell profile from ABS but similar overall intensity. Some users find ASA more pleasant; others find it sharper. Same fix: enclosed printer with carbon filtration (X1C/P1S/H2D have it built in), or vent the enclosure exhaust outside. Don't sleep in the same room as a long ASA print.